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2012 - 2015 Honda Civic Si / Acura ILX Cold Air Intake System w/ Batter Box

Fits 2012 - 2015 Civic Si
Price: $389.99
Product Options
Throttle Body Coupler:
Application:

A custom tune via preferred tuner with Hondata FlashPro is required.

There is a reason our PRL Motorsports cold air intake system for the 9th Gen Civic is one the top selling intake systems of in the performance community.  This intake system is constructed from 3.5″ mandrel bent 6061 tubing and utilizes a composite 3.5″ velocity stack with high flow PRL Motorsports oiled filter and matching breather filter. Our couplers use 4-ply silicone and the correct size reducer for either the stock throttle body or the ZDX throttle body with stainless steel worm clamps. Choose between stock intake manifold and RBC intake manifold choices!

All of our intakes are hand made with attention to detail by enthusiasts like you to ensure premium quality and perfect fitment every time. Our intakes are dyno proven to be one of the only intakes that actually perform and provide gains!

When ordering, please make sure to select the proper throttle body coupler.

Kit Includes:

  • Upper Intake Tube
  • Lower Intake Tube
  • 3.5" Composite Velocity Stack
  • PRL Motorsports Oiled Air Filter
  • PRL Motorsports Breather Filter
  • (2) 3.5" 4-Ply PRL Motorsports Couplers
  • (1) Throttle Body Specific 4-Ply PRL Motorsports Coupler
  • (6) Stainless Steel Worm Clamps
  • Cold Air Intake Cushion Mount
  • Battery Relocation Kit
Stock intake manifold applications will receive 20" of 5/16" coolant hose, and RBC applications will receive a coolant hose and 2 stainless steel worm clamps

 


Install Notes for Battery Tray:

  • Once the original battery box has been removed, remove factory clutch line and bracket from the transmission and install replacement clutch line into slave cylinder using supplied adapter fitting. Connect replacement clutch line to slave cylinder and tighten hose end onto the previously installed fitting.
  • Install replacement Transmission bracket on to the front of the transmission where the original one was removed. Torque bolts to 20 ft.-lbs. Clip wiring harness back into place.
  • Install battery relocation tray using original hardware, 1 bolt will go into side of frame rail, 2 will go into top of frame rail. Leave these bolts loose until you get the M6 bolt and Nylock nut inserted through ECU bracket. Once all bolts are in, tighten everything down.
  • Run new clutch line through rubber grommet, underneath battery tray and up to connection on the drivers side frame rail. Insert female end of the new clutch line through the bracket on the frame rail and loosely install tubing nut into female side of clutch line.
  • At this point, check to make sure that new clutch line is clear of the clutch fork on the transmission, if not, twist the line so that the line clears the clutch fork. Once everything is in a good position that won’t cause interference with the clutch fork operation, install the factory retaining clip that holds the clutch line into the bracket. Tighten down tubing nut into the female fitting with 2 wrenches.
  • Install battery into tray 180 degrees opposite of how it was positioned in the car originally.
  • Place terminal extension on positive terminal and tighten M6 cap screw to clamp it on the battery post.
  • You’ll need to remove the brown plastic harness clip from the starter harness and open up the wiring loom about 4-5 inches and pull connector that goes to core support out of the harness to enable it to reach.
  • Factory J-hooks will go through holes on the ears sticking from side of battery box and you’ll use the new supplied battery tie down plate to hold battery in place.
  • Negative terminal should reach without modification.
  • Positive terminal will reach battery by removing it from the clip on the ecu bracket.

Install notes for Intake System:

  • We recommend removing the front bumper cover for this installation, although it should be possible to do by pulling back the drivers side inner fender liner.
  • You’ll need to remove the complete factory air box system and resonators that run down into the fenderwell.
  • Remove the bolt from the battery tray that is closest to the front of car. Replace that bolt with the supplied rubber insulator and coupling nut assembly.  Make sure to install the supplied washer underneath it.
  • You’ll want to fish the lower half of the intake down through the opening in the fenderwell and slide bracket over the stud on the rubber insulator. Loosely install the supplied M8 nut onto the stud.
  • You can now install the upper section of the piping with the supplied silicone and clamps, make sure the air flow sensor is on top of the pipe when you install the upper section of the pipe. You will want to leave all of the hose clamps loose for final adjustments.
  • Install the filter assembly w/ velocity stack on the lower section of piping in the fenderwell. The filter will basically be up against the fender liner and against the lower edge of the core support. This is normal. You’ll want to leave the clamps loose until everything fits in it’s final place and allows the fender liner to fit properly. Once you feel that everything will go back together nicely, you can tighten all of the clamps, reinstall the bumper cover or fender liner. Tighten any other hardware that had previously been left loose.
  • Connect the wiring for the mass air flow sensor, and refill the coolant system.
  • Start the car up, check for leaks and you’ll be ready to have the car tuned.

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